Simple Bicycle Style Tips

As a follower of wabi-sabi, or the art of imperfection, I don't believe anybody needs a nice, clean, new bike to look good cycling.

Old bikes have style. That's wabi-sabi in action. Tires could stand to have a little air though. 

A usable object is the most valuable kind of object, and a little rust and dirt shows someone cares enough about a bike to keep it in their active possession – which is the highest compliment in the pragmatist's lexicon.

So long as devotion to authenticity doesn't get in the way of use, of course.

All that said and out of the way, here are a few simple tips to make your bike look a little nicer.

• Valve Stem Cohesion. 

You tube valve should always be centered on your tire's label. There's a practical reason for this too, it's easier to find what caused a flat when you have a point of reference between the tube and tire. 

Always take the installation nut off too. You don't need it, as I've said elsewhere. I don't use valve caps either because that's just one more thing to mess with before filling a tire, but if you like them go ahead and put them on. 

Also, make sure both tires' treads are pointed forward.

• Bar Tape Mirroring. 

The basic rule of bar tape is that both sides should look identical. How you wrap your bars is fairly arbitrary, though don't tell that to any serious bike mechanics – a lot of them treat their bar wrap pattern like sacred text. 

The basic rules are:

1. The wrap on both sides should end equidistant from the stem. 
2. The number of wraps on either side should be the same. In the case of the bar above, there are 9 wraps above the curve, and 10 below – on either side. I use a caliper to make sure everything is even. 
3. There should be no bar showing, except at the end of the wrap. Keep an eye on where the brifters meet the bar, because that's where a little triangle of bar likes to poke through. 
4. Keep the finishing tape as thin as possible. Some people don't let the finishing tape touch the bar at all, but I think that's a little impractical. 
5. The bar-end caps should both face the same direction. 
6. ABOVE ALL ELSE: one side should always mirror the other. Exceptions to this rule are very, very rare. 

• Cable Management.

Shimano suggests cables should be 3cm long after the retaining bolt. I do 4.5cm because that fits my forth-hand tool better. I would never go more than 5cm, because it looks messy and could get caught in the wheel. With disc brakes, the cut should be about 2cm so that the cable can't get into the rotor. 

The important thing is that all cables of a type are the same length, and capped the same way. Never ever let them fray, but if they do you should replace them – don't try to cap the end. 

• Protect The Frame from Scuffs.

The hard rubber on the cable housing can scuff your bike's paint, especially when it gets dusty. I'm not a huge fan of frame stickers because they bubble and gunk can get underneath (see pic), I prefer a soft-rubber buffer where the housing and paint meet. 

• Readable Quick Releases.

This is not a strict rule, but quick release levers look best when you can read the label. They're slightly more aero when parallel to the ground too. 

It's important that the QRs be on the non-drive side. The exception to that rule is if the front wheel has a disc brake, then the QR can go on the drive side to keep your hand from touching the rotor. 

• Keep Stem, Spacers, Cap and All The Rest in Line

All spacers and stem paraphernalia should follow some sort of intention. I like everything to be readable from the saddle, but there are other fine patterns. Just make sure it looks good. Also, if you have different-colored stem spacers, try to alternate them. 

• Lastly, Keep Cables Trim. 

Once you've figured out your fit and are ready to commit, the cables/housing coming out of the handlebar should be no longer than necessary. The rule is that a rider should be able to turn the handlebars all the way in either direction without drag or binding from the cables/housing. The front brake cable/housing should go straight out of the barrel adjuster and remain straight for a couple centimeters before the bend. 

As you can see in the pic,  all the cables/housing cross at roughly the same spot in the center of the head tube. Ideally, you want the cables to exit the bars in a mirror of one side to the other, but I cut the front brake housing too short in the pic below, and had to adjust accordingly to make the barrel adjuster exit look right. 

• Bonus! Advanced Tips!

Don't go overboard trying to make everything match, but in general:

1. Stem, handlebars, and seat post should all be the same color, finish, and style.
2. Saddle should match handebar tape.
3. Seat post binder should match headset.
4. Hubs should match brakes. 
5. Water bottle cages are their own thing and shouldn't match anything other than each other – same goes for water bottles. 
6. Full fenders or no fenders.
7. NEVER match your riding outfit to your bike. It looks too cute by far. 

Oi. Too much. Courtesy of Velomanati, whose rules are staid but worth reading.

For more steaze (style w/ ease) and ideas, check out copenhagencyclechic.com

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